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Nile Monitor Caresheet on Fri Feb 05, 2010 2:13 pm
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Scientific name - Varanus Niloticus
Description - Nile monitors belong to the Varanid family which encompasses all monitors and the legendary Komodo Dragon. The Nile monitor is one of the largest species of Varanid and has the reputation of being a very nasty lizard to keep. Nile monitors can live 15-20 years in captivity, and rarely even longer. Sometimes reaching lengths of over 6 feet, this lizard averages between 4.5-5.5 feet in length, and features a long, thick body and a very long and powerful tapered tail for which it uses as a defensive whip and for swimming. Extending from the toes are gigantic razor sharp claws, which they use to dig. Their jaws have many teeth and are powerful enough to crush human hand bones. These monitors come from Western and Eastern Africa, living mainly near sources of water and rivers, as its names suggests. Because of its very large size, voracious appetite, and bad disposition, this lizard is not for the inexperienced keeper or the faint of heart. The distinction between this and the closely related Ornate monitor, Varanus ornatus, can be made by counting the sets of green dots along its back. A Niloticus will have 7-8 rows and is much lighter green in color, while the Ornatus will only have 4-6 rows and is a darker green coloration and possesses a slightly more stout body. The Ornate Monitor was, up until very recently, merely considered a sub-specie of the Nile monitor.
Temperament - The reputation of these lizards precedes them. Know to be flighty, skittish, extremely defensive, and overall mean as hell, these can be difficult lizards to raise. A myriad of techniques for the so-called "taming" of these lizards exist, but there is no single method for getting Nile monitors to become less defensive. This leads to many heated debates among those who keep this specie.
The bottom line is that if you aren't okay with a lizard that will bite you, whip you, defecate on you, take up a ton of space, and burn a hole in your wallet, this lizard is not for you. For those who do not have a problem with any of this, read on.
Cage and substrate - Niles grow to huge proportions and like alot of room, so many accommodations must be made for this animal. A hatchling or juvenile will do well in a 55 gallon wide terrarium, with plenty of branches to climb on, logs to hide in a night and a water dish large enough for the lizard to submerge its entire body into. Nile's love to swim, so it's also a good idea to let your monitor swim in the bath tub every once in a while. It provides exercise and stimulation. A good substrate to use for these lizards is a combination of cocoa fiber and play sand, as this will hold humidity and burrows well. Enough substrate should be provided to stimulate your Nile's natural burrowing instincts. As your Nile grows, you will inevitably be required to build it a custom enclosure. There are many methods and designs for these cages, but one constant is that the cage should be no less than 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet tall. Any less is not adequate. With Nile monitors, the more space the better. Also note that babies and juveniles will be stressed out by being placed into a cage that is too big for it, so there is no way around cage upgrades.
Lighting/Heating/Humidity - Many keepers of monitors insist that full spectrum UVB lighting is not necessary for these lizards, but breeders and experienced keepers will agree, the lizards do benefit from these lights, and it is never a bad idea to have one. A basking spot should be provided to your monitor during all daytime hours. For juveniles this basking spot should be around 110 degrees, but sub-adults and adults can stand and enjoy temperatures between 120-130 degrees. Care must be taken to ensure that the ambient temperature does not get too hot. The cool side of the cage should be around 85 degrees. A night time drop to as low as 68 degrees is fine. You monitor will learn to enjoy misting times, and you should spray your cage down with water at least once a day, more if needed. Niles do well with about 65% humidity.
Diet - Nile's have voracious appetites, and because of this it is smart to breed your own feeders for it. Babies will take up to 20-30 crickets daily, as well as pinkie mice, roaches, and turkey hearts/organs. As they grow, so will their appetite, and crickets and pinkies will quickly become obsolete. Larger juveniles will take multiple fuzzy mice a day, and up to 30 large roaches, or ground turkey. This large diet will continue to progress as the monitor grows and for your lizards entire life. As adults, monitors will relish baby chicks, day old rabbits, large insects, ground turkey, eggs as a treat, but as with all monitors food items with large amount of fur should be avoided. They will take rats, but if you have access to hairless rats, this would be highly recommended. One must make sure they are feeding the appropriate sized prey, because too small an item and it isnt worth it, and too large could be detrimental to your monitors health.
When these guidelines are followed your Nile should lead a long and fulfilling life.
Description - Nile monitors belong to the Varanid family which encompasses all monitors and the legendary Komodo Dragon. The Nile monitor is one of the largest species of Varanid and has the reputation of being a very nasty lizard to keep. Nile monitors can live 15-20 years in captivity, and rarely even longer. Sometimes reaching lengths of over 6 feet, this lizard averages between 4.5-5.5 feet in length, and features a long, thick body and a very long and powerful tapered tail for which it uses as a defensive whip and for swimming. Extending from the toes are gigantic razor sharp claws, which they use to dig. Their jaws have many teeth and are powerful enough to crush human hand bones. These monitors come from Western and Eastern Africa, living mainly near sources of water and rivers, as its names suggests. Because of its very large size, voracious appetite, and bad disposition, this lizard is not for the inexperienced keeper or the faint of heart. The distinction between this and the closely related Ornate monitor, Varanus ornatus, can be made by counting the sets of green dots along its back. A Niloticus will have 7-8 rows and is much lighter green in color, while the Ornatus will only have 4-6 rows and is a darker green coloration and possesses a slightly more stout body. The Ornate Monitor was, up until very recently, merely considered a sub-specie of the Nile monitor.
Temperament - The reputation of these lizards precedes them. Know to be flighty, skittish, extremely defensive, and overall mean as hell, these can be difficult lizards to raise. A myriad of techniques for the so-called "taming" of these lizards exist, but there is no single method for getting Nile monitors to become less defensive. This leads to many heated debates among those who keep this specie.
The bottom line is that if you aren't okay with a lizard that will bite you, whip you, defecate on you, take up a ton of space, and burn a hole in your wallet, this lizard is not for you. For those who do not have a problem with any of this, read on.
Cage and substrate - Niles grow to huge proportions and like alot of room, so many accommodations must be made for this animal. A hatchling or juvenile will do well in a 55 gallon wide terrarium, with plenty of branches to climb on, logs to hide in a night and a water dish large enough for the lizard to submerge its entire body into. Nile's love to swim, so it's also a good idea to let your monitor swim in the bath tub every once in a while. It provides exercise and stimulation. A good substrate to use for these lizards is a combination of cocoa fiber and play sand, as this will hold humidity and burrows well. Enough substrate should be provided to stimulate your Nile's natural burrowing instincts. As your Nile grows, you will inevitably be required to build it a custom enclosure. There are many methods and designs for these cages, but one constant is that the cage should be no less than 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet tall. Any less is not adequate. With Nile monitors, the more space the better. Also note that babies and juveniles will be stressed out by being placed into a cage that is too big for it, so there is no way around cage upgrades.
Lighting/Heating/Humidity - Many keepers of monitors insist that full spectrum UVB lighting is not necessary for these lizards, but breeders and experienced keepers will agree, the lizards do benefit from these lights, and it is never a bad idea to have one. A basking spot should be provided to your monitor during all daytime hours. For juveniles this basking spot should be around 110 degrees, but sub-adults and adults can stand and enjoy temperatures between 120-130 degrees. Care must be taken to ensure that the ambient temperature does not get too hot. The cool side of the cage should be around 85 degrees. A night time drop to as low as 68 degrees is fine. You monitor will learn to enjoy misting times, and you should spray your cage down with water at least once a day, more if needed. Niles do well with about 65% humidity.
Diet - Nile's have voracious appetites, and because of this it is smart to breed your own feeders for it. Babies will take up to 20-30 crickets daily, as well as pinkie mice, roaches, and turkey hearts/organs. As they grow, so will their appetite, and crickets and pinkies will quickly become obsolete. Larger juveniles will take multiple fuzzy mice a day, and up to 30 large roaches, or ground turkey. This large diet will continue to progress as the monitor grows and for your lizards entire life. As adults, monitors will relish baby chicks, day old rabbits, large insects, ground turkey, eggs as a treat, but as with all monitors food items with large amount of fur should be avoided. They will take rats, but if you have access to hairless rats, this would be highly recommended. One must make sure they are feeding the appropriate sized prey, because too small an item and it isnt worth it, and too large could be detrimental to your monitors health.
When these guidelines are followed your Nile should lead a long and fulfilling life.
